Concepts you will learn in this article:
- Round and Square Layering
- Face Framing Layers
- Blunt Cutting
- Point Cutting
- Washing Hair PROPERLY
- Sectioning
- Overdirection
- How to check for balance
- Blowdrying and Flat Ironing techniques (eg. how to hold, dry and section properly)
- Sharp Shears (designed specifically for haircutting, not your kitchen scissors)
- A Wide Toothed Comb (with sectioning tooth or tail)
- Sectioning Clips (+3, these are best)
- Smoothing Shampoo*
- Moisturizing Conditioner*
- Rinse-Out Smoothing Treatment*
- Medium Round Brush
- Ionic Blowdryer (with focusing nozzle)
- Flat Iron
- Heat Protective Spray
Consultation:
The consultation between a client and stylist is one of the most important aspects of the entire hairstyling profession. A good consultation with a client can make or break a haircut, and factors hugely into whether or not the client is pleased with your services. Long story short, make sure that the client is prepared to go through with the haircut (this is very important relative to the length of hair you'll be cutting), and that they have a full understanding of your plans for the hair, as well as a decent idea of what the finished product ought to look like.
Prep and Sectioning:
- Wash the hair using the recommended shampoo. For a tutorial, click here.
- Condition the hair using the recommended conditioner, applying from roots to ends.
- Apply the smoothing treatment, making sure to achieve coverage on the hair and not the scalp.
- Dry the hair, removing excess water, so that the hair is damp.
- Comb through all the hair so that it is straight back and tangle free, as shown in this picture.
- Establish a profile parting (straight, center), running from the forehead hairline to the nape.
- From the nape profile parting, section horizontally just above the occipital bone, running all the way around the hair to meet the front hairlines on each side. Image below.
Cutting:
- Point cut the baseline, rounding toward the sides, remembering to cross check for balance. Continue taking horizontal sections from the crown area and point cutting to the guide length. Repeat the second half of this step until all the hair has been cut to the guide length.
- Establish a horizontal profile parting, running from the profile to the back of the ear on both sides, to isolate the front from the back. Clip off both front sections. Then take a radial section at the crown, intersecting with the horizontal profile on both sides, creating a crown section.
- Point cut one inch layers (.5-1 inch horizontal sections) in the crown, overdirecting the hair back and up. Establish a guide in the middle, continue using pivoting sections, overdirecting each to the middle and cutting to the length of the guide. Image below.
- Take a half inch wide profile section from the crown to the forehead, and point cut using the guide formed in the crown. This creates a new guide for the top of the head.
- Begin taking half inch wide diagonal back sections (running from the center profile to the crown), and point cut to the guide established in step 4. Repeat this step until all of the hair in the top area has been layered.
- Unclip both front sections.
- On one side, take a diagonal forward section (parallel to the front hairline), overdirect down and forward (45 degrees), and cut on a diagonal (see picture). continue doing this until you reach the back of the head.
- Repeat step 7 on the other side.
- Blowdry the hair using the medium round brush. Brush down to avoid volume.
- Apply the heat protective spray, and flat iron the hair (remember that you should use a comb).
- Finished Product:
